![]() ![]() Metal stands dont work so well with soft floors, but a wooden stand will work on concrete or gravel. Especially true if you have a dirt or gravel floor. Only way to go for long term use is wood. I mount mine on sections of tree trunk, aka, a log. I'll let you know how they turn out and how it works once the anvils are mounted to them. Building up a wood stand from 4x4s or whatever is a good way to go. I just finished making the form and will hopefull pour the concrete soon. Another reason I chose concrete is that it is much cheaper per pound than steel is, even at scrap prices. By making the stands out of concrete and bolting the anvils to them, the combined weight will be well over 500 pounds, which would be pretty immobile under most circumstances. It's true that the heavier your stand is and the more solidly your anvil is attached to it, the less your anvil will move, which means you get work done more efficiently. Each stand will be between 250-300 pounds depending on the height. I made a simple wooden from and will pour them with QuickCrete crack resistant cement. Each base will be 12x15 inches and the height will vary depending on the anvil. I'm in the process of building several anvil stands out of concrete. This basically allows for a wider base that's more stable but doesn't force you farther away from the anvil. Drilling holes for attaching mechanical system brackets to a concrete utility room. Step by Step iForge on-line blacksmithing instructions. Examples of wood and metal stands, drawings and anvil stand plans. Drilling holes in a garage floor for permanently fixing power tool stands to the ground. Different types and construction of blacksmith anvil stands. Hanging TV wall mounts, shelves or pictures on brick walls. Drilling into concrete steps for attaching handrails. Having the corner of the stump sticking between your feet allows you to get a few inches closer because nobody works with their feet tight to one another. Drilling through basement concrete to attach framing lumber. One thing that I saw after building my wood stand was to rotate the anvil on the wood base by 45 degrees so that the long axis of the anvil is bisecting the stump on the diamond instead of the traditional method of running parallel to the side. My big anvil doesn't get moved much, so a heavy stand is okay. The difference, though, is that I like my smaller anvil to have a light-ish base so it's easier to move around. The wood is very light compared to the metal stand for my other anvil. However, I do have another stand that's made out of 6圆 pressure-treated lumber because that's what I had on hand. stand up to everyday life.Shaws engineered products are made with either. Ideally, I prefer a tripod stand that allows my feet to get under the anvil similar to a toe-kick on a kitchen cabinet. glue down installation over approved wood and concrete substrates. It really is a balancing act entirely dependent upon your particular circumstances. ![]()
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